TALES FROM THE SADDLE
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The Bikes:

 

Rudolf, the Yamaha YBR125For economical reasons, I ride a small bike.  At first this was "Rudolf" a Yamaha YBR 125cc motorbike; this bike was phenomenal!  Slow by motorcycle standards but quick enough, and it managed unbelievably well considering the bad roads it took on.  Above all its fuel consumptions was brilliant.  It was fuel injected - being a European model - and managed up to 50km on one litre.  This meant a great tank range with the standard 13 litres, and I rarely needed to carry extra fuel.

In Guatemala, with something over 90,000km on the clock, the Yamaha died, a long story.  I switched to a Honda XR125L "Rodney" and have regretted this really (For info on buying a bike in Guatemala see the FAQs page).  The fuel consumption is much worse, being carbureted, attaining 35km/l at best (less than 24km/l at times rivalling some 650ccs!). 

Rodney, the Honda XR125LAncillary parts on the Honda seem to have worn out consistently quicker than the Yamaha, which itself needed hardly any maintenance at all.  This included chains; 10,000km always, O-ring included.  This excessive wear could be due to the rear shock being overloaded, the Yamaha at least had pre-load adjustment, but the Honda has no adjustments.  Fork seals needed changing every 15,000km, steering bearings every 20,000km (a non-OEM set of needle bearings were a little better), swing-arm bushes needed changing at about 55k (I think).  Wheel bearings I think lasted much better when I replaced them with NON-OEM parts (the rear Honda bearing isn't fully sealed).  In fact, I would only ever buy Honda OEM for engine internal parts (otherwise aftermarket), bearing in mind it is a Chinese built 125cc not a Japanese built higher-end Honda, where I am more certain OEM is recommended.  Finally with 72,000km on the clock the Honda's third gear broke and I rode the remaining 8k without it (all low altitude).

Checking the valves on the Honda meant removing the tankAlso, I found the Yamaha a bit nicer to work on, air filter behind the side panel, and the valves were very accessible via two large caps, the Honda needs the side panels, seat, tank and exhaust-gas recycling tube removing (something I considered removing completely to try and aid high-altitude combustion).  I also had numerous small electrical glitches with the Honda, which nearly got me into a lot of trouble.

Also, Honda stores seemed to staffed by snooty pricks, whereas Yamaha would stop all work to help me out at a discounted price, even stripping store models to get needed parts.

The Honda uses 17" rear tyres and 19" front, these are a bugger to find, or at least very limited choice, the front being especially tricky and usually means buying a Pirelli MT60, (see notes on tyres below).  The Yamaha uses 18" tubeless in my case, and meant for easy repairs, but still tricky to find tyres as most countries outside of Europe use an 18" tubed rim.  Eventually I made the switch to tubes on the Yamaha as the tubeless rims were leaking through damage; dents and dings. Better of course is an 18/21" combo such as on a Yamaha XT125.

One would think the Honda would be a better ride, and I think it was marginally, though it was marginal and it isn't to be considered a Dual-sport bike in this regard, rather "just another 1-2-5".

Overall, I would say that the main consideration should be that several times with the Honda I had to turn back - though on bad, steep and high altitude roads.  The Yamaha never failed and I often thought on those few occasions, "the Yamaha would have managed that."

My recommendation therefore is to stick with small but look for fuel injected!  This will help with economy and high-altitude running and make long deserted stretches easier with regards carrying fuel, and maintain the advantage of parts availability.  Models I personally am looking towards, as a guide, are the Yamaha XT250 or WR250, both fuel injected.

BIKE PREP

The bikes have little in way of prep work.  I've had some simple racks welded on and I like to have engine bars, to protect the pedals more than much else. 

In future I'll switch from the top box to a tank bag or probably panniers, my old tank panniers wouldn't fit on the Honda.  This change will help move weight forward and save my food from bouncing around so much at the very rear (and most moving area) of the bike.  A top box is not recommended.

I used to have hand-guards, but don't find much benefit, more likely to break your wrist and your levers can still break.  However, they do provide wind protection in cold climes...so next time I'll try some simple plastic guards (without alloy rails).  I prefer to to trim the brake levers down to to a two or three finger like lever to help save them from breaking.  Mirrors break with or without the guards.

The Yamaha had a screen, but this broke in falls, and with the low speeds, especially on dirt, I didn't think it was really necessary.

I fit fork boots. And now have a tool tube.

As I camp almost always I also have to have some form of charging camera and head-torch batteries and, now, a kindle.  I therefore carry a charger for AA/AAA (the camera has AA) and a USB socket, both of which charge from a simple car cigarette socket.

12v socket with USB adaptor for kindleAA/AAA battery charger in Honda Tool compartment
TYRES

I've had a lot of tyres, and lots of poor ones.  Duro have been really good buys, economical and tough (only one puncture from several of their tyres...bearing in mind I've had 76 punctures!). 

A Bridgestone was also one of the few tires not to get punctures, but it cost a lot. 

Metzeler lasted really well, but punctured as much as any other cheap tire. 

I've had a LOT of puncturesI've used Golden Boys and CRTs and I've just fitted a Pirelli MT21 at great expense, and a Rivaldi front. (UPDATE: these were very grippy and great on dirt but the Pirelli's knobbles and carcus split revealing the thread, I've heard this from others, and the Ribaldi wore quickly).

Front tires are somewhat less important (grip aside) in that the lack of load on it means it rarely punctures(unless a MT60 POS) and lasts well. 

In sand you can ride just anything as far as I'm concerned, a knobbly rear I find tends to dig-in, though of course I don't have much engine power too to drive this along, and a knobbly front will catch the edges of tire ruts in the sand, should it be a sandy road (as opposed to smooth untouched desert).  A smoother road-ish tire was better in sand. 

In mud, well, if it's real sticky it tends to stick!  And, again, I don't really have the power to fling the mud out of even the biggest knobbles! 

If it's hard-packed red mud and wet you may as well fit skates and hope the road doesn't go uphill.....

UPDATE (May 2013) I've used a few Pirelli tyres and think they are the worst tyres and pricey too, MT60s are very thin carcuses and only two plies, puncturing easily, they really are like bicycle tyres.  There are copies of the same tyre but with more plies and deeper tread, by almost all manufacturers.  The Pirelli MT60 looks like it is as good as worn out as soon as you fit it!

All this above is new, and below most new info is in GREEN! to help you relax when stressing over packing!

PACKING AND GEAR:

People have the impression that I carry a lot, but I think this is a bit of a misconception (though buying better equipment has helped), my Ortlieb panniers are only 40litres for the pair (most hardboxes are 40 litres or more each). As well, as I camp almost every day I have to carry a lot of food and water....

Below is an itemised list, which gives a complete packing list as well as recommendations on some equipment choices I have made or learnt.

Don't get too bogged down when first planning your list, it's simple, and might help to remember that....

Not as complicated as first seems, being broken down in to
Tools and parts,
Camping and cooking,
Hygiene, (hardly a section at all)
Clothes,
...and paperwork, sometimes lots of paperwork.

For example, my right pannier is cooking stuff, including water (4litres usually).  Left pannier is an assortment of things I don't use, or don't hope to!, spare parts, waterproofs, adhesives, electrical tester, oils, a shoe tin and a medi-kit.  The duffel bag sitting on the rear of the saddle has clothes and bedding.  On top of this bag is the tent bag.  The top box has food and some things I like to keep secure like paperwork, and for some reason spark-plugs. Add on the tool tube and that is everything.


And, if you do have any questions, just ask....

GEAR

Camping...mainly....
Tent [Terra Nova Voyager 2 person] - *UPDATE* - I now use a North Face Rock 2, the first had had a lot of use!  I chose this as it was green, larger, two doors, two porches, cheapish, and importantly; freestanding!
Floor Foot print - I originally bought the proper footprint, this was dumb, a tarp will work.  I still use the original.
Additional pegs - I now use shop hooks, having lost my pegs, or having them confiscated in the airports!  Sand pegs are a wise buy though. 
Sleep mat [Thermarest Prolite 4] - With 21 punctures the thermarest was toast....I bought an Exped SynMat Basic, and it is the best buy I've ever made, way more comfortable than the Thermarest and no punctures so far and no delamination issues like thermarest....though I'm more careful these days. (UPDATE May 2013):  After two years the Exped has really reached the end of life, the valve's aren't great (leak and are irreplacable), I ripped it out in the end and stuck a tyre valve in with lots of liquid gasket, it worked, but also the bed punctures where it wears at the joins between baffles, this is probably not an issue on their more expensive Ultralight version or the Synmat (ie not the basic) as the baffle design is different and, having tried one, much more comfortable....so my next purchase.
Sleeping Bag [Mountain Equipment Sleepwalker 1] - I'd been freezing my knackers off for far too long and bought a Mountain Equipment Helium 600, it packs smaller, is down (not synthetic), and much warmer than the synthetic bag despite closely matched ratings, I also got a good price on a good 'second'.
Sleeping bag water proof stuff sack [Ortlieb]
Sleeping bag liner
Travel Pillow [Thermarest] - With the purchase of the new mat, I also bought their Pillow Pump, the thermarest is more comfortable, but this keeps the inside of my bed dry rather than inflating by mouth.

Water purifier [Katadyn] - I dropped this, and despite it taking many falls of the bike, this time it hit the peg.  To get by in this section of the trip (South America) I bought a Steripen.  Whilst the Steripen kills the bugs I don't particularly like it.  It uses batteries, of course, but most importantly it doesn't rid the water of chemicals; so things like chlorine and fertilisers which are common in tap or river water respectively (they put a LOT of chlorine in the water), or physical crap and small barely visible organisms, .  Whilst it is  less effort to use, it often sends up errors, meaning retreatment; more time and more battery power usage.  The batterywarninglight rarely signalsmeaningthatwhen youneed it it decidesit'sflat....It's also very easy to miss a drop or more of water with the steripen, if you treat a bottle or a pot there's a good chance you'll miss a bit and if the water is full of parasites, it only takes a drop I have read.  The steripen light can treat up to 4000l (I believe).  The katadyn, if you don't drop it, will do 20,000l.  When I visit home, I'll buy a replacement for the Katadyn. (UPDATE May 2013, the Steripen broke,probably from damp in the circuitry!!)

Stove  [Primus Omnifuel] - Still going, somewhat strong, though the stove broke off its mount and meant a bit of a Heath Robinson repair with wire, and one of the leather pump seals tore....luckily I carried a spare (no longer of course).
Bike lock - Just broke from corrosion, despite fancy labels saying Kevlar and 5billion lb steel cable
Head torch and batteries - Originally I had a Petzl Myo XP.  Whilst the light output was phenomenal, the problem really was the battery pack was mounted separately on the back of your head.  This meant it was uncomfortable to lie with but, more importantly, the wire was prone to breaking, mainly through fatigue at the solder points on the lamp itself.  This meant finding an electrician, sometimes tricky.  The light output also meant you'd be seen for miles in the tent, even on its lowest setting, not what you want!  I now use a cheaper Diamondback which has the batteries in the lamp unit complete.
Camera - I've gone through a few of these, a droppable, waterproof, dust proof camera would be best, but I like to use AA batteries.  So, I currently use a Canon SX130, it's lasted pretty well, has been through several repairs and takes okay pictures.  If I can afford it and find space, I'll step up to DSLR next leg....
Ortlieb 4litre Water bags x2 - 
Day bag - I originally just used my backpack to hold all my gear, then stolen, I had nothing to carry!  then I used a cheap duffell, but then made a great purchase, an Ortlieb Rackpack 49l.  This holds all my clothes and bed and sleeping bag...and keeps it dry!  They're also a pretty good price.
Garmin Etrex - This was a gift from my employer when I left to Africa.  I've still got it and use it for marking every camp and as well, for crossing deserts or salt lakes.  It has no maps, so I must download the points beforehand.  But it uses AA batteries, meaning I can charge them easily along with headlamp and camera batteries on the same device on the bike.
Wind up radio - I sold this in a market in Guatemala as BBC had reduced its WorldService to SW and digital.  A sad loss.  Listening to home in tent was one of the most lovely experiences.  I always look out for a SW radio or a Digital Radio....
Light My Fire flint/firestarter - Still going, getting thin now though.
Vango cookery pots. - One left, without handle.....still going though and cheap.
compass - Very Important.

Cup - Originally a plastic cup, I had a flask then, tired of my drinks going cold in the cold weather, now I have a cheap tin cup as it's easier to clean.

Spork - What a silly idiot I was, a spork costs about $8 and lasts about as many minutes.  I now have a spoon, given to me as part of a set by some friendly travellers in Italy. 

Pen knife - Originally a cheapie hanging around my besties shed, now a cheapie given as a gift.  Need only a knife, can opener and bottle opener.

 

Clothes

Riding Suit - I'm on my third riding suit!  Now a BMW riding suit, a gift from Andres in Guatemala (Thanks!)  Whilst the suit is good, the vents excellent, the internal (though removable) waterproofing is a big problem, mainly for because of the cold, it's essentially like wearing a cooling vest.  I've chucked the Goretex liners in favour of a plastic waterproof suit (importantly see below).   Also the zip broke and the pockets are too small and too high.  I personally think that a leather riding jacket and jeans, or kevlar jeans if you think necessary would be better.  the reason I say this is you look a bit of a wally (i.e. like a spaceman) in a riding suit and it's nice to blend in a little when you get off the bike and walk around town.

North Face convertible trouser - I think cotton trousers are better, tougher, cheaper and less "gringo"....take ages to dry though!
gloves from PEP in Namibia - (The Local) People need gloves, so they get stolen if you're not careful.  Without heated grips, I carry two pairs lightweight and waterproof, I've gone through a few pairs, and if you're going to ride bad roads, you've a good chance of a fall, no matter how slow, gloves are worth it I think.
2 t shirts - With my sleeping bag space and bed space(packed) reduced with new purchases,I now carry 3(!) T-shirts.  In a lot of countries you can find used clothes markets and get very cheap buys....if you're lucky even goretex gloves!  I also have a long-sleeve shirt.
pair of shorts
Blue fleece - Replaced for a smaller (i.e. packed) RAB Quantum top, it's brilliant and keeps me warm in cold conditions at camp and, as it's synthetic, on the bike.  But I also have a fleece given to me, for when it's really cold!
Waterproofs - Originally I had some eVentgear from Rab and some bicycle company.  They were both excellent, light and breathable, but sadly were stolen.  The riding suits I have had have supposedly been waterproof, but as I buy low-end suits the liners are poor and soon leak, mainly as they seem to "rot" with sweat and disintegrate when washed.  Later I was given a BMW suit with gore-tex liner s (see above for problems). The problem area for me is always the crotch, with you bouncing in the seat on bad roads the waterproofs always fail here...ask any motorcyclist where his waterproofs leak....I'm now using a cheap plastic oversuit, warmer than the liners (discussed above in "Riding Suit") but they will soon tear.
wooly hat
3 pairs of socks - Four now, my feet are smelly.
3 pairs of undies - 
Motorcycle Boots - Originally leather motorcycle boots, offered good ankle protection but the toe always broke from kneeling in camp, setting up, or making bike repairs.  I've been using leather boots for a while, and my latest pair a pair of Rockport work boots are about the best I've had.  They cost $100.  Again, as with the Riding Suit above, it means I look less of a wally in the street when walking around, and they are much cooler than those horrid lined moto boots.

Tights! - I added a set of cycling bib-tights to my clothing which I had at home (and picked up on a work visit in 2011), for the cold.  They work well, dry quick and pack small.

Scarf -  sadly lost this in Korea, and replaced it with a buff like thing.

Flip-flops - good for going to pee in the night, better than putting on your boots, just watch out for scorpions.

 

Tools/Spares
Tyre leavers x3
superglue
spark plug - I carry several, mainly as the Honda plugs are hard to get as the locals don't understand the number system and stock one that will fit, but is actually wrong.
2 Spare inner tubes for bike 
brake and clutch cable
12v electric pump - Chucked, now carry bicycle pump, plus a tiny backup.  Much simpler, more reliable.
some good duck tape
Tire repair patches
Chain oil - I usually use transmission oil 90w, it's cheap and for me I could run the chain dry and it makes no difference.  Scottoiler perhaps.  I've tried numerous sprays, not impressed, take up space and cost a lot.
Tool kit - the original from the bike.
Spare Quick links for Chain
Rag to clean bike in zip lock bag - I still have a rag, an old pair of underwear actually, but it's not in a ziplock....
Zip ties

Gear shifter - if this breaks you're stuffed

Wheel bearings, I think, unless you've just changed them, you should always carry a spare set of wheel bearings.  They are small, cheap and prone to break without notice.  (ask how many people took a trip and their wheel bearings broke!)

Air Filter - I now carry two of these, one in the bike plus a spare.  The reason is the Honda filter is more time consuming to remove and so I clean one and run the other, change, then clean and so on.  I have to clean the Honda filter a lot more too, mainly as it has to be really clean to run well, especially at altitudes.

Rim tapes - Because the Honda has spoked wheels, I carry rim tapes.  A long nail tore the rim tape once.  You can make your own too from old tubes, as they are tricky to find.

I also now carry a tube to raise the bike to fix punctures, do maintenance.  The Yammy had a centre stand.

Extra side-stand, make sure to chock the front wheel to stop it spinning out...onto your head!

The old YBR had a centre stand, the Honda didn't so I made a swing-arm/subframe mount for raising the rear/front wheel.  I left this under a motorcycle I helped to dismantle so had better one made from steel in Bolivia.  It works better, I'd noticed some slippage flaws, but is still too heavy....I'll make mark three soon.  Adam uses a walking (hiking) pole with two rubber feet, it is extendible and light....and hopefully doesn't slip off (chocking the front wheel helps).

Bathroom/Health
Soap
toothpaste
toothbrush
tiny towel - Originally a travel towel (idiot) I now have a tea towel.
toilet paper
paracetemol in med kit - add migraine meds too!
First Aid Kit
Lemsips
Sewing Kit
Other
Book - One of my greatest purchases has been a kindle, for rainy days in the tent, much less space and every book you could ever want.  It cost a bit to start with, but I'm saving money now not buying used books! 
Sunglasses
Wallet
iPod - broke
Diary
Pen

I usually now carry anti-bacterial gel, it's just easier to clean my hands.

I also carry anti-stinky boot spray if I can find it.

 

Documents
passport
Map
Copies of drivers license
V5/copies of - replaced with Guatemalan papers
Copies of passport
IDP
Vaccination book/Yellow Fever certificate

[contract content]

 



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